After surviving a night of terrain-changing, shelter-crushing, ear bud-cracking storms, the Appalachian Trail led me and a group of lonely hikers to Franklin, North Carolina.
It had been raining for three or four days without ceasing, and everything we owned was drenched, so we all decided to split up and share some cheap motel rooms and enjoy the town for a couple of days — also, Overdrive, one of the long-haired hippies I hiked with, was expecting some of the finest marijuana money can buy (if you can find it), and because he was getting it for free he wanted to share it with us all. We couldn’t wait. One of Overdrive’s closest friends is a leader in the “legalize marijuana” group, NORML, so whenever she had the chance, she would mail him “medicine” to help ease the pain in his knees.
Franklin is a blur.
My clearest memory is when I ate more food in about two hours than I could normally eat in a week. The hikers I hiked in with and I walked about a mile from the motel to eat at a Mexican restaurant. I ordered the steak dinner. The plate was about half the size of my torso.
After we all devoured every last crumb, we started walking back — about halfway to the motel we stopped at a McDonald’s; I ordered two combo meals and finished them before the motel was even in sight. As soon as we got back a man offered us all a ride to Walmart. We accepted because we knew there was a Chinese buffet in the same parking lot. We feasted until they kicked us out. Then, we hitched a ride back to the motel and I shared a pizza from across the street with two other hikers. When you hike up and down mountains all day, you eat constantly. When you smoke pot all day, you eat constantly.
I think I was in Franklin for three days, but it could have been more. I remember sitting in a plastic lawn chain in the middle of a parking lot watching cars drive by for what felt like days. The sun had finally defeated the rain clouds, and it was nice to sit out and enjoy its warmth. I also remember Franklin’s sidewalks scaring the crap out of me. When you hike, you hike alone. You enjoy community in the mornings and in the evenings, but during the day you hike alone. The only things you hear are a few random animals, sometimes the wind and rain, and always the constant rhythm of your feet. At first it’s nice, then it’s unnerving, but eventually it becomes the most calming thing in the world. You go from that to walking on concrete next to a busy street with loud, fast cars and you’re gonna need a change of underwear.
Other than the delicious food, the plastic lawn chair, the deadly traffic, and, of course, the large amount of weed (oh, and I remember watching the Royal Wedding on a tiny television), I don’t remember much of Franklin, but what happened immediately after Franklin still makes me angry with myself.
After hiking north for a while, leaving Franklin behind, I found an old, overweight man sitting on the trail with a homemade pack that he claimed weighed more than me – I believed him – and an empty water bottle. Not just an empty water bottle, but a tiny plastic bottle with a Sprite label still around it.
He begged for water as soon as he saw me. I knew I had more than enough to make it to the next water source, so I filled his bottle.
“What are you doing out here?” I asked him as he gulped down the water. I asked him kindly, but probably not as respectfully as I would ask a man of his age off the trail. On the trail, though, age is not measured by years or time — it’s measured by miles and experience, and this man was a baby and I was disappointed in him for being so ill prepared.
The man explained to me that he used to call Franklin his home, but he had lost his job and shortly afterward his house. So, he grabbed a tarp, put everything he could in it, tied it up, strapped it to his back, and hit the trail. My heart broke for the man and I knew that I needed to help him. I asked him how far he was hiking for the day.
“To the shelter,” he answered. There was a shelter just a few miles up the trail. “Do they have food there?” My heart broke even more. The shelters are nothing more than three walls, a roof, and a wooden floor. And if you’re lucky there might be a privy nearby so you can have a somewhat private poop. There is no food at the shelters, and after I explained to him what the shelters are his shoulders dropped lower than they were before. I knew there was a stream next to the shelter, though, and I told him he would have all the water he could need. I wanted to share my food with him, but I had just enough to make it to my next restocking point. I was so stoned the days before I had completely forgotten to restock on food until I was about to hit the trail, so I ran to a gas station across the street from the motel and bought what they had to offer. Normally, I carry more food than I need, but then I only had candy bars, beef jerky, and a few other gas station type foods. I was worried about myself making it, and I knew I couldn’t take care of him. I refilled his water bottle, asked if there was anything else I could do — after he said no I continued walking.
As I walked I thought of a way I could help him: I was going to hike to the shelter, set my pack down, and walk back to the man to carry his pack for him. The weight of the pack worried me a little, but I knew I could handle it. I was excited about this good deed and I hiked with new strength.
Soon, I saw my buddy Overdrive sitting on the trail with his pack off. I asked him what was up and he pointed to a wooden sigh. The sign explained that the shelter wasn’t actually on the Appalachian trail, but on a side trail about a mile away.
“I’m not walking two extra miles,” he said, “I’m just going to the next one. What are you going to do, Zappa?” The guys called me “Zappa” because of my mustache and soul-patch — they said I looked like the eccentric musician, Frank Zappa.
“Not sure,” I answered, as I dropped my pack and sat next to him. I wanted to stick with Overdrive because he had the pot, but I also wanted to help that poor, struggling man. As we sat there, a few of our buddies began to show up. I asked each one if they had seen the man. They all answered yes and laughed and joked about him. It sounded like he was still sitting in the same spot. Thankfully they all claimed to have shared their water; one said he even gave him some food.
I knew that if I helped the man I wouldn’t have enough sunlight to catch up with Overdrive and the gang, and we were already planning for a long hike the next day, so unless I wanted to kill my already swollen knees, I wouldn’t ever be able to catch them. I decided the man wasn’t worth putting distance between me and the marijuana, and just like that I never saw the man again.
I barely slept that night — I couldn’t stop thinking about him.
I thought I had officially run away from my evil self. Life off the trail had become so full of self hatred, sexual immorality, drunkenness, and so many other sins that I had to escape. The hike was supposed to be my walk of purity into goodness. It wasn’t just from Georgia to Maine — it was from “wreck” to “figured out and complete.” But, away from everything I was still allowing sin to prevent me from being good. And I knew there was nothing I could do about it.
A few weeks later I was in a church office of a good friend of mine. I was not a Christian then, and he knew it, but he believed something was different about me. Perhaps there was. Perhaps I was finally allowing God to change me. Perhaps I was just finally getting to where I didn’t hate God so much I could have a conversation about Him without getting angry. Whatever it was, I assured my friend I was the same crappy human he knew from the year before. He asked what I thought about God and Christ, and I told him I wasn’t sure.
Then, I told him the story about the old guy on the trail. I told him about how badly I wanted to be good. I told him I had been made fully aware of the fact that I was a “slave to sin” and that there was nothing I could do about it. I needed sin to live. Sin prevents one from being good. So, I could not live a good life. He leaned back, smiled – almost knowingly – and said, “It sounds pretty scary to be a slave to sin.”
After hashing it out for about two months, I dropped to my knees on July 5 of 2011 and for the first time in my life I was freed from my sins by the power of Christ Jesus. And I was made good.
“But I want you to know, brethren, that the things which happened to me have actually turned out for the furtherance of the gospel, so that it has become evident to the whole palace guard, and to all the rest, that my chains are in Christ.”
- Philippians 1:12-13
I pray for the man when I remember him, and I remember him often.





